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Itinerary >>
Middle New England, so close, but so exotic. Newport north to Boston, with stops at the close islands and a chance to whale watch, this is our setting, ripe for exploring. We begin the adventure in Newport, which is exciting and beautiful in any season. Sleepy and snow shrouded in winter, she blooms with bustling life during the summer. You will want to schedule a full day in Newport, and then probably wish you had been able to linger longer. There are several "must do" things in Newport, and highest ranking on the list is visiting the famed Cottages. Mansions to most of us, these were merely summer cottages for the rich and famous following the Civil War. The Preservation Society of Newport maintains eight of the perhaps dozen that remain. Walking across perfectly manicured lawns, standing on the wide verandas looking out at the ocean or marveling at the grandeur of the interior one of these mansions, stop and close your eyes. Listen very carefully. Can you hear the clink of champagne glasses, the soft tones of the chamber orchestra? Can you imagine living in this manner? Living the life you read about in The Great Gatsby? Days gone by, but lucky us, we can still enjoy the beauty and pretend we were there, if only for a moment.
Leaving Newport behind, it is Island Fever Time, New England style. Block Island, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket, conveniently nearby, but miles away from the frantic pace of everyday living. Block Island is only about 12 miles off the coast of Rhode Island, with Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket adjacent to Cape Cod. Rarely crowded, even in the middle of summer, Block Island is a colorful palette of multicolored clay cliffs, shifting sand dunes, crashing waves, and fields of honeysuckle. One quarter of the island is designated as preservation land where rare birds and habitats can be observed. The Greenway is a network of trails that wind through park, conservancy and private land; it starts mid-island and ends on the south shore. However, most people coming to Block Island are eager to visit the beaches. The most popular is Crescent Beach, which is actually three separate beaches. The first is Benson Beach, complete with chair and umbrella rentals, showers and a snack bar. Following the dune paths, you will arrive at Scotch Beach. Further on is Mansion Beach, located beneath the cliffs and the ruins of a former ocean-side mansion. Mohegan Bluffs are located on the island's south shore and are multi-colored clay cliffs that tower 200 feet above the ocean. They stretch for several miles along the shore, offering spectacular ocean views and steep paths leading to the beaches that rim the coastline below. Bartholomew Gosnold brought a group of colonists in 1602 toMartha's Vineyard. These were to be the first residents of the triangular-shaped island, named for the wild grapes Gosnold found growing everywhere. The colonists were gone after 3 weeks,but soon replaced by many more. The Vineyard is 20 miles long, and 10 miles wide, large enough to have a myriad of fascinating places to visit, small enough to be able to do so on a bike. The island is one of rolling moors, salt marshes, secluded coves and colored cliffs, perfect for those who enjoy the outdoors. For the history and architecture lovers, Edgartown is a treasure trove, waiting to be explored. Start at the Martha's Vineyard Historical Society and Vineyard Museum, which includes the Thomas Cooke House and Captain Pease House. Though not part of this complex, the Vincent House Museum gives you a glimpse of life as it was, 300 years ago. The Martha's Vineyard Preservation Trust maintains this structure, built in 1672, which is the oldest house on the Island. Time for some fresh air? Hop back on your bike and take experience Martha's Vineyard State Forest, in the center of the island, with its dense stands of pines, or the Manuae F. Correllus State Park, which has 4,400 acres of hiking paths and bike trails. Still not tired? The Oak Bluffs to Edgartown trail is a 12-mile round-trip that runs along the waterfront. If you have any energy left after your day of history and riding, pick up a copy of the Vineyard Gazette, the newspaper that has served Martha's Vineyard for over 150 years! Of the great American Novels, one of the best loved and most often quoted is Herman Melville's Moby Dick. Melville said of the Nantucketers: "these sea hermits, issuing from their ant-hill in the sea, overran and conquered the watery world like so many Alexanders, parceling out among them the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans". For almost 100 years, Nantucket was among the world's greatest whaling ports. Today the whaling is gone, but the island remains one of the most charming and picturesque places in New England. To visit the Nantucket of days gone by, make sure you visit the Whaling Museum, which is housed in what once was a factory for refining whale oil. There are exhibits of all of the tools of the whaling trade, plus a whaleboat, an excellent collection of scrimshaw and a full-sized whale skeleton. The local Historical Society has pamphlets giving a self-guided walking tour of Nantucket Town, the main port. During its heyday, Nantucket Town was home to over 10,000 residents. The cobblestone streets, lined with large stately trees surrounding elegant houses, give testimony to the success of the sea captains, merchants and ship owners. One of the most well-preserved is the Hadwen House, which contains many of the original furnishing. The oldest remaining house was built in 1686 and is a fine example of the saltbox style dwelling so popular in the Colonial 17th century. One of the best ways to see the natural side of Nantucket is by bike. There are several well marked bike paths on the island, offering you views of cranberry bogs, wetlands, moors and ponds. Be warned, several of these paths are 12 to 16 miles long, so you will want to be prepared. One of the best places to relax and rejuvenate in Nantucket Town is The Brotherhood of Thieves. With its low, oak-beamed ceilings, wood paneling and lots of candles, you feel like you have been transported back in time and quite possibly over to England! What a lovely way to end a very pleasant day. Hyannis bills itself as Cape Cod's "hub", and is indeed packed with restaurants, shops, clubs, hotels…and people! A popular base for visits up and down the Cape, Hyannis is the Cape's commercial center. Summer season is brimming with things to do, including the Hyannis Harbor Festival in June, the Cape Cod Symphony Orchestra, and the Boston Pops with Pops-by-the-Sea in August. Intense national attention was focused on Hyannis in the early 1960's, when John F. Kennedy was president. The Kennedy family still owns a large estate, the Kennedy Compound. The John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum documents JFK's life and his time in Hyannis.
Just outside Provincetown is the Cape Cod National Seashore, established in 1961. Encompassing 43,500 acres, the park runs from Provincetowon down to Orleans, including within its borders: ocean beaches, wind-swept dunes, salt pond marshes and spectacular cliffs, as well as pitch pine and scrub-oak forests. A succession of glacial deposits and wind and wave erosion formed Cape Cod's present hook shape. Studies indicate that the sea and wind action are eroding the Cape at an alarming rate, and that the land itself might be sinking into the sea. Take some time to sit on the beach and simply watch the waves roll in, reflecting on the what has happened to this locality to create it, and what continues to shape it, and consider how precious the area is.
The entrance to Boston Harbor is guarded by an archipelago consisting of 30 islands. As your captain eases your charter yacht past them and into her berth in Boston, you just might find yourself thinking that maybe next time you should start your charter in Boston, explore some of those islands, then head on up the coast to Maine. Yes, you haven't even finished this adventure, and already you are planning your next charter; which really is the what a holiday is about, isn't it?
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